On the Sauce at Blinds, Hackney: Skin contact heaven for naturalists

I’m starting to feel solemn whenever the natural wine discourse comes knocking. One minute I’m sitting in a bar, any bar, drinking an Asahi, the next, yet again, it’s that cyclical conversation about Stoke Newington, cocktails in cans, seasonal modern bakeries and New Balance-clad people who cook Marmite spaghetti. Culture in modernity, the Vogue cigarette scenes; dissonance as regards what constitutes progress.

It makes me think London has become a meme and we are in it. I’m beginning to think there is nothing worse than those white background collages about London culture. They’re as bad as boomers talking about scones and whether cream or jam should go on first.

I wondered whether I might encounter these egocentric people at Blinds, a new wine bar in Hackney. It ticks the boxes with its exposed brick and forward-thinking wine list.

Can I shock you? I like natural wine. I enjoy the fact there isn’t much to go on, it’s the Wild West, and so nobody can turn into a divorcee from Surrey and start telling you what was a “good year” before pulling a Campo Viejo from an uncrooked wine rack.

Blinds is the pinnacle of new London: a place to enjoy the words “skin contact” in a former blinds shop. There are small plates — pâté en croûte, burrata, sardines in oil, saucisson — and mostly the bottles come from small-scale, independent producers. At the weekend, there are DJs. It’s entirely memeable.

I can only give it my full support. I liked it a lot. Why wouldn’t I? The wines change but there might be pinot from the Jura, a Beaujolais or two. The muscadet from the Loire is glorious, especially with pickles. So long as nobody’s forcing Riesling on me, I’m happy. Some push towards being expensive but many aren’t. Also, who can be grumpy with a chilled red in the sun?

Blinds is a noble place with a meandering wine list. I will visit again for something soft. Skin contact, hopefully, which I might enjoy with a Vogue.

279 Hackney Road, E2 8NA; blindsldn.com

Noreen

A new Noreen restaurant is to open on St Christopher’s Place in June, with cocktails from maestro Ryan Chetiyawardana, aka Mr Lyan. The Middle Eastern concept is the work of chef Mehdi Hani, who’s been a senior chef at Harrods for the past four years. Alongside flatbreads, grilled meats and slow-cooked dishes will be Lyan’s cocktails. He’s crafted drinks calling on the likes of za’atar, black lime and tahini. “We’ve always loved introducing guests to new flavours,” he says.

28-32 St Christopher’s Place, W1; @noreenlondon

Aldi’s still prosecco

Aldi has launched bottles of still prosecco, claiming the wine has the same distinctive flavour of the classic Italian fizz but “without the bubbles”. It appears the canny discounter wants to appeal to the enormous prosecco fan base in Britain. Known as prosecco tranquillo in Italy, the still wine offers the same light, fruity flavours of its carbonated counter-part. It’s not wildly popular in Italy, so we don’t suppose Aldi’s six-month trial run will come to all that much.

All stores; aldi.co.uk